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The time to enter the video contest on Expedition Portal has closed but there is still plenty of time to view all the videos. Voting will be taking place soon to determine the winner but till then, let the anticipation grow and lets watch some great adventure videos! Over the next few days and weeks, I’ll be sharing some of my favorites.
John Bull Trail from Tom Benitez on Vimeo.
If you have never experienced a meal prepared using a Dutch oven or cast iron cookware, then you are missing out. Cast iron is heavy and bulky so it doesn’t lend itself well to backpacking but for an overland trip where you can afford some of the extra weight and space its a versatile tool that can help you prepare a very wide range of meals. Cooking with a dutch oven and cast iron is a whole different world. Some of the key benefits are that you can prepare food with less oil, when properly seasoned it gives a non stick surface and its something that can (and does) last for generations.
I have had quite a bit of experience using a dutch oven from by background as an Eagle Scout but I didn’t have one as my own till my in-laws got one for me for Christmas 9 years ago. The cast iron got used quite a bit for the next five years but then military deployments and such forced me to leave my cast iron cookware in storage for about four years. Had I been an obsessive compulsive diligent person, I would have given it all a thorough cleaning and heavy seasoning before putting it all into storage. Instead, I was a bad man and I let out all go as is. Bad choice.
When I opened up my sad looking, dust covered, shredded nylon storage case for the dutch oven I was shocked at how bad things were. At first, I contemplated sending it all to the recycling center. Then my cheap frugal self decided it would be better to apply a heavy dose of TLC and elbow grease and try to recover it. My initial inspection revealed that the apparent damage was just really bad surface rust. I didn’t find any cracks so maybe this could be done. The next step was choosing my weapons to combat the steady onslaught of corrosion.
I did a lot of Googling research on how to remove rust and found a lot of recommendations. With the amount of damage I figured it try a few and see what worked best. After all, the damage had already been done; I couldn’t really make it any worse.
So here’s a list of my weapons for this battle:
• Vinegar
• Stiff bristle brush
• SOS pads/steel wool
• Electric drill motor and assorted wire brush wheels
I had read on a website that the vinegar would help remove rust so I gave it a try. I filled the lid and the oven with vinegar and let it sit for 24 hours. It certainly did something; I could tell that there was a chemical reaction taking place as seen by the bubbles, the slightly slimy feel and of course the smell of vinegar and…well something stinky. If you try this method, open a window and let some fresh air in. I dumped the vinegar down the drain and I could tell that it did help loosen up some rust, but it was far from enough to revive things. On to the next weapon.
Next, I tried a stiff bristle brush. That broke free some of the larger bits that were loosened up by the vinegar but again, it wasn’t quite enough to get the job done. And in the process, I think I ruined my wife’s dish washing brush. Oops!
Next up was the steel wool. This method was very effective! Basically, you just grab a pad and lean in hard while rubbing. Essentially, what you’re doing is taking the oven down to bare metal. You’ll notice that if you are using water to help clean the surface while you rub, that in a few short minutes, the oxidation process will begin again. I’d say that this method is best suited small spots rather than a full restoration job, like mine. I was pleased with the progress but I was channeling my inner Tim Taylor and this this job needed MORE POWER!
I went out to the garage, grabbed the first abrasive wire brush wheel I could get my hands on, tightened it into the chuck on my DeWALT drill and went to town. By the way, safety first! Wear some eye protection and hearing protection! Wire bristles will come loose and you do not want one of those stuck in your eye ball. Also, take this job outside so you don’t get oxidized dust all over the kitchen (again, sorry honey!) The only moisture involved in this process is in the air so any oxidation that takes place after the stripping process is minimal and can be wiped off easily with a paper towel. Despite the assistance of the drill in correcting my work to progress ratio, this still took quite a bit of time. But once it was all finished, I had a bare metal dutch oven that was ready for some seasoning!
Before adding any oil, it is important to wipe off as much of the dust as possible. Once you’re satisfied that the bare metal is clean, or you just give up, warm up your oven to 200 degrees and slide in your dutch oven. This will evaporate any moisture on the oven and prepare it for the first coat of oil. Leave the cast iron cookware in the oven for about an hour. Once that is completed you’re ready to start seasoning!
When I was in Boy Scouts it was common for people to just use Crisco and smear it all over the dutch oven to season it. But what I found is that you’ll have a slightly greasy residue when you’re finished. I was trying to achieve that nicely seasoned finish that is hard enough to provide some real wear resistance so I won’t have to go through this seasoning process again in the near future. The question then is, what do you use to season cast iron? There are lots of different opinions on the Internet (no surprise there) so finding the right substance was difficult and I’m still not sure that I got it right. You can get the seasoning in a bottle from your local sporting goods store but I wasn’t quite satisfied with the results that I’d seen. What really caught my attention was the scientific approach used by this website that I found: http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/ The bottom line up front is that the secret is all about the polymerization. Flax seed oil is said to provide the hardest, most non-stick finish possible and will give a nice long life to your cast iron cookware. Next question is, where can I buy flax seed oil? My answer is, I don’t know. But here, let me Google that for you… http://lmgtfy.com/?q=flax+seed+oil. This is what I ended up using though. http://www.barleans.com/flax-oil.asp. You’ll want to add enough oil to give the dutch oven a good coat and then wipe it off. Wipe it ALL OFF! You want to season your dutch oven in very thin layers to get the best results. Before you crank up your oven to 500 degrees you should consider laying down a sheet of aluminum foil across the rack to protect your heating coils from any potential drips. But you won’t have any drips because you wiped off ALL THE OIL, right?! Once your rack is covered crank up your oven to 500 degrees and set your dutch oven and lid in the oven. I placed my oven in upside down so that there wouldn’t be any potential for pools forming in the bottom of my dutch oven if I accidentally did get too much oil during any of the steps.
Let the cast iron bake for 60-90 minutes. After about 90 minutes, turned the oven off and let your cast iron set in the oven over night. What you are doing is letting the flax seed oil cure and harden. The next day, pull the cast iron out of the oven and inspect your work. The iron should be significantly darker. If the finished is tacky or sticky, then you either didn’t get the temperature high enough or you didn’t let it bake for long enough. The last key to a perfectly seasoned dutch oven is many thin coats of seasoning. When you’re ready for the second coats, crank your oven up to 500° while you wipe on another thing coats of oil. Remember again to wipe as much off as you can to ensure the layer is as then as possible. Bake it for another 60-90 minutes and then let it cool over night. I repeated the steps until I was pleased with the results, which ended up being six coats.
Since I have finished the seasoning I have used the cookware a few times and I am very pleased with the results. My eggs don’t stick to the surface. The flank steaks tasted amazing! And best of all, everything cleaned up easily! I have a long list of recipes to try out during this years camping season and I’m looking forward to enjoying all them around a camp fire out in the back country!
The last thing to consider now is how to store and transport your dutch oven. For the short version of the answer, I’ll refer you to my friend Matt over at http://www.blueridgeoverlandgear.com as he makes an outstanding dutch oven case that will protect your dutch oven from the abuse of a trail and protect your rig from the abuse of a heavy metal object bouncing around.
If you have a favorite dutch oven recipe idea love to hear about it! Leave your recipe in the comments below or send it to me at the4x4podcast@yahoo.com!
Every time you head into the backcountry, you are assuming some risk to yourself and your vehicle and this is just for you and your family/friends to enjoy nature and have some fun. Of course no one plans on having an accident or breaking parts, but you should still be prepared for those other incidents do happen. Ideally, you’ll want to take actions to prevent accidents and vehicle carnage and that will be address in the future. But to mitigate the impact on your adventures you must be prepared. I’ve compiled a list of ____ things that you should take with you to help make sure you make it home in one piece and under your own power.
First Aid Kit – You can outfit your kit will as much as you think you need and opinions vary widely regarding what a good first aid kit should include. Use some common sense on what you think should go in there and also refer to someone that has a lot of experience with first aid. Regardless of what you put in your kit, you might want to also include an inventory list so that when you go back and inspect your kit of expired items (you are inspecting your kit, right?!) you’ll also be able to refill the kit with the items you’ve already used. Here’s a short list of first aid kit contents pulled from the American Red Cross:
• 2 absorbent compress dressings (5 x 9 inches)
• 25 adhesive bandages (assorted sizes)
• 1 adhesive cloth tape (10 yards x 1 inch)
• 5 antibiotic ointment packets (approximately 1 gram)
• 5 antiseptic wipe packets
• 2 packets of aspirin (81 mg each)
• 1 blanket (space blanket)
• 1 breathing barrier (with one-way valve)
• 1 instant cold compress
• 2 pair of non-latex gloves (size: large)
• 2 hydrocortisone ointment packets (approximately 1 gram each)
• Scissors
• 1 roller bandage (3 inches wide)
• 1 roller bandage (4 inches wide)
• 5 sterile gauze pads (3 x 3 inches)
• 5 sterile gauze pads (4 x 4 inches)
• Oral thermometer (non-mercury/non-glass)
• 2 triangular bandages
• Tweezers
• First aid instruction booklet
Fire Extinguisher – I’ve already mentioned this in a previous blog post so for more info be sure to refer to Trail Safety Tip #1. (http://www.the4x4podcast.com/trail-safety-tip-1) But here’s the info you need. Make sure you have the correct type of fire extinguisher. Your vehicle is full of electrical stuff and fuel so you’ll want a Class A,B, C extinguisher. Have it mounted in an accessible spot and check it regularly for serviceability. Lastly, make sure you know how to use it. Just remember the pneumonic “PASS”. Point – Aim – Squeeze – Sweep.
Recovery Gear – Your recovery kit can have just as many things as your first aid kit because no situation is ever exactly the same. Many times you won’t be recovering yourself, but rather someone else on the trail. A good rule of thumb though, is have all the gear you need to recovery yourself and if everyone in your group does that, you’ll have just what you need to get you out of almost anything. Recovery is something that I will leave for a future blog post or podcast episode but if you want to really learn some techniques and best practices be sure to check out Tom Severin’s instructional DVD at http://www.4x4training.com/Products/WinchDVD.html. Here’s a short list of what you recovery kit should include:
• Tow Strap
• Tree Saver
• Leather Gloves
• Multiple D Shackles
• Snatch Block rated to match your winch and vehicle
Hi-Lift Jack – There are a 1,001 different uses for a hi-lift jack; everything from lifting, winching, clamping, extraction and more. However, many of these jacks are worn on vehicles as accessories and are neglected. If your jack isn’t lubricated then its usefulness is severely limited. Show your jack some love and keep it clean!
Communications – Staying in touch with the rest of your group is essential. Choices for communication is wide ranging. Everyone has a cell phone but I would leave that as your last ditch effort as cell signal in the backcountry is spotty at best. One easy option to keep in touch with your group is a FRS radio but your range is still going to be limited as these units have extremely low power output. A big step up is the BC radio. There hasn’t been much in the way of technological advances in CB radios since they first became popular back in the 70s. The power output is better than FRS but not by a whole lot. The best option is a HAM radio. You’ll need a license and the equipment is significantly more expensive but the reliability and range is worth the investment. For more about HAM radios, be sure to refer back to episode 15.
Tools – Even MacIver would love to have a basic set of tools at his disposal; so what makes you think you don’t need them? I like to keep my tools in a bag rather than a tool box because it helps cut down on the noise and can be compressed to keep from wasting precious storage space. Not counting any special tools that are specific to your vehicle, here’s a short list of recommended tools for your rig:
• Metric and Standard Socket Set
• Socket adapters, universal joints and extensions
• Ratchet (make sure it fits your socket set)
• Pliers (needle nose and snub nose)
• Vice Grips
• Screwdriver Set
• Allen or Hex Keys
• Flashlight
• Lug wrench with key for locking lug nuts, if you have them
Full Size Spare Tire – In a best case scenario, you’ll have a matching spare tire in the same size as the other 4 corners of your rig. Having a spare that has little tread left is a good way to save some money on a component that is there just as a band aid. Even a bald tire can help you get off the trail or down the road those last few miles but if there is a significant size difference you can cause other issues. A full size spare tire will help preserve your differential if you are running a locker. If you’re going to have a spare, make sure its aired up and ready to go. Here’a quick tip too. That tire is a giant air tank just waiting to be used. If you have a hose that can connect to two valve stems at the same time, you can use that spare tire’s air to put some air back in your other tires if you don’t have a compressor. You won’t get much air this way as once the pressure equalizes between the two tires, that’s all the air you’ll get out of it.
Battle Damage Repair Kit – In the military, we call it Battle Damage Assessment and Repair BDAR. Essentially, that means get out of the truck, look at how badly you’ve broken something, channel you’re inner-MacIver and fix it good enough to get off the trail. Even if your JK isn’t dealing with IED damage, it wouldn’t hurt to take some tips from the pros. You can prevent most breakage on the trail by some good preventative maintenance but there will always be something that you just didn’t expect. Knowing how to use all these goodies is also important but that’s part of the MacIver art. Here’s the list of goodies that will help solve many of the mechanical issues that may arise while on the trail:
• Bailing wire
• Electrical wire
• JB Weld or other two-part epoxy
• Alumaseal or other radiator repair compound
• Red and Blue RTV sealing compound
• Wire brush
• Zip ties
• Electrical tape
• Aluminum tape
• Duct Tape
• Anti-seize tape
• Various sizes of hose clamps
• Electrical wire connectors
• Adjustable Drive Belt (http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_performance_composite_vbelts/powertwist_home.aspx)
• Rags
• Battery clamps
• Disposable latex gloves (don’t steal the ones out of your first aid kit and don’t use your BDAR gloves for first aid)
• Mini hacksaw and spare blades
• Utility knife
• Sand paper
• Kitty litter or oil absorbent pads
Tire Plug Kit – If you don’t have a spare or maybe you’ve already gone through your spare a tire plug kit can be a life saver. The most common tire puncture that occurs on the trail is through the sidewall. Any respectable tire shop will not repair a sidewall slash but that doesn’t mean that it can’t be done. Small holes can sometimes be filled with a quick plug but even larger holes can be filled with a couple plugs. You can usually stuff a couple of them in a hole faster than you can lift the vehicle an throw on the spare. That being said, this may be your first option rather than your last. If the thought of driving on a sidewall plugged tire sounds sketchy, that’s because it is; do not drive a sidewall plugged tire on the highway as it could easily pop out and then you’ve got a flat tire at high speeds. Now once you get the patch completed you’ll need to put a bit of air back in so you’ll need a compressor of some kind. Something like the Warn Powerplant or the Power Tank CO2 tank is a great option but there are many different brands and varieties of air compressors
As seen by the recent development of an Android app for The 4×4 Podcast, I don’t own an iPhone. But I know that many of you do and I want to make sure that you look good using it. And I’d love to see some of your photos from the trail so you’d better be protecting that precious phone! I previously wrote about the iPhone case modeled after a head gasket but that one didn’t provide as much protection as the Mickey Thompson Baja Claw iPhone 4/4S case!
This officially licensed case features that same recognizable tread design that you’d find on the Baja Claw tires. Its molded rubber to fit snuglly fits and provides acess to all the buttons and ports and protects if from some of the abuse you might dish out. If you’re interested, jump on over to RC4WD.com and pick one up!
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To stream the audio for the show, you can click on the play button right here!
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On this episode of the podcast we interview Calvin Williams, the creator of the CrewBed which might solve your Jeep Wrangler storage problems. Also, we talk about who is the worst road trip partner, the Chinese copy the Ford F-150, James Bond’s Super Duty pickup, Dodge tries to keep up with Ford, Expedition Portal is hosting a video contest, what to keep in your trail repair kit vs. what US Soldiers have in their repair kit. In the feedback section we talk about what to do to get ready for your trips and how to get out there more easily with the gear you need. And Kristoffer Smith talks about whats in his bug out bag.
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Links from the show:
Jeremy Clarkson Voted The Worst Road Trip Buddy
Chinese Automaker Copies the Ford F-series
Dodge Trots Out Its Most Expensive Trim Too
Expedition Portal Video Contest
Mountain Khakis – not kayaks
Whats In Your Trail Repair Kit?
Whats in GI Joe’s Trail Repair Kit?
You’ve always been able to listen to The 4×4 Podcast on your Android phone, interact with the show on twitter, send email and call the voicemail. With the introduction of the android app, all those functions and more have been brought together all in one spot to make things easier.
The app is still in development and is in beta for now. Its not yet available through Google Play yet so you’ll have to sideload the installation. If you’d like to try out the beta version go ahead and download the .apk and let me know what you think. I’ll be keeping a close eye on the comment section to try and improve the app.
To keep up with the updates, check back often till it shows up in Google Play. http://www.the4x4podcast.com/android-app
Have you ever found yourself trying to explain the complex motions and inner workings of the combustion engine to a non-Gear head only to find that you lost them at your third word? Well here’s what you need to assist you in your explanation.
http://www.animatedengines.com/
Even if you have a great understanding of all the mechanical relationships, you’ll still probably learn something! Take some time and study these animations. And save this link because it will be a great reference when you need to teach you kids this important info and concepts!
Now what I’d like to see is the same guys behind animatedengines.com make animatedtransmissions.com and animatedsuspensions.com!
In the year of the Dragon, it seems fitting for Jeep to announce the special edition Jeep Wrangler “Dragon” for the Chinese market at the Beijing International Automotive Exhibition. This special edition concept is full of Chinese themed accents and specials. This Wrangler is based on the China-market, Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. The concept starts with a black body and adds several bronze-gold images of dragons on the body, a color associated with the dragon. The same color is also found around the body in places such as the grill slits, headlamps, tail lamps, wheels, engine cover, and fuel cover. The dragon images are scattered all over the body and can also be spotted on the spare tire cover, and on a special carbon-fiber insulator under the hood. From the front, you will also notice the LED lighting package for headlights, fog lights, turn signals, and tail lights.
Inside the bronze-gold colors continue the theme. The seats are black leather with a gold “dragon-scale” accents. Dragon etched gold-bronze metal accents are on the dash and steering wheel and side doors. Some special laser-etched dragons are also on the headrests. The same image can also be found on the floor mats. Based on demand, the press release says this concept could become a production option.
Currently, Jeep offers the Grand Cherokee, Compass, Patriot and Wrangler. Based on statistics, China is the Chrysler Group’s most important market outside of the United States.
Photos and News Source: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/04/23/jeep-wrangler-dragon-design-concept-slithers-into-china/
The XJTalk podcast and forum is giving away a snorkel kit for a Jeep Cherokee XJ! The rules are fairly simple and there are multiple ways to enter. You can “like” them on Facebook and then post there why you should win the kit. Or you can share info about the XJTalk forum and podcast on your own site, blog, or social network. If you share XJTalk anywhere other than on their Facebook page, be sure to post in the forum thread what you did!
XJTalk is a very active forum made up of XJ owners and enthusiasts. They are a friendly and knowledge bunch. I highly recommend that if you own a Jeep XJ, you check them out and be sure to let them know you heard about it here, at The 4×4 Podcast!
I know that I sure could use a snorkel on my XJ on these northern New York trails because the poodles on the trails and seasonal roads here are shockingly deep. And just because I know what to do with a hydro locked motor doesn’t mean I want to use that knowledge!
